The landscape of cosmetic setting sprays has long been dominated by one iconic product: Urban Decay's All Nighter. For over a decade, this spray was the gold standard for locking makeup in place, boasting five Allure Best of Beauty awards and a cult following that spanned generations of makeup enthusiasts. However, the beauty industry is rarely static. In a significant move that sent ripples through the cosmetic community, Urban Decay has launched a completely reformulated version of the All Nighter Setting Spray. This shift marks the end of a fifteen-year partnership with the original formula's creator, Skindinavia, and represents a strategic pivot toward in-house product development. The new iteration is not merely a minor tweak but a fundamental reimagining of the product's chemistry, packaging, and performance characteristics.
The decision to reformulate stems from Urban Decay's desire to evolve the product based on community feedback and the limitations of the original patent. The original formula, developed by Skindinavia in the mid-2000s, was patented for its unique cooling effect and long-lasting hold. Skindinavia's founder, Allen Goldman, originally developed the formula with the intent of selling it under his own brand but struggled to gain traction in a market that did not yet embrace setting sprays. He eventually licensed the formula to Urban Decay, which launched All Nighter in 2010 to massive success. For fifteen years, Urban Decay paid Skindinavia for the right to use this patented combination of ingredients. Now, Urban Decay has chosen to produce its own formula internally, effectively ending the licensing agreement.
The new All Nighter is the result of four years of dedicated research, involving over 100 formula iterations and the expertise of more than 20 scientists. The brand has stated that this decision reflects an ongoing commitment to listen to the community and raise the bar for makeup performance. While the partnership with Skindinavia is over, the brand expressed gratitude for the 15-year collaboration that helped shape the legacy of the product. The new formula promises 24-hour wear, ensuring makeup remains waterproof, smudge-proof, and transfer-resistant while leaving skin looking smooth and flawless.
The Chemistry of Change: From Skindinavia to In-House Development
The core of the reformulation debate lies in the chemical composition of the new spray versus the original. When the new formula was released, cosmetic chemists Kelly Dobos and Amanda Lam were consulted to analyze the ingredient lists. Their analysis revealed significant structural differences between the two versions. The most notable addition in the new formula is a film-former called AMP-acrylates/allyl methacrylate copolymer. This ingredient is designed to create a durable, flexible film over the makeup, enhancing its longevity and resistance to environmental factors like humidity and sweat.
In the original formula, the cooling effect was a signature feature that users cherished. Chemical analysis suggests that this sensation was likely derived from specific volatile components that evaporated rapidly upon application. In the new formula, the chemists noted that specific ingredients responsible for the intense cooling sensation in the original are no longer present. Instead, the cooling effect is now attributed to the evaporation of ethanol. While ethanol does provide some cooling as it dries, the intensity is reportedly diminished compared to the original. This change has been a point of contention among long-time users who were accustomed to the powerful "ice-cold" sensation of the OG (Original) version.
The new formula is described by experts as being "rather simple." Beyond the film-former and ethanol, the remaining ingredients consist primarily of preservatives, a chelating agent, a lightweight emollient, and fragrance. This composition makes the new spray chemically similar to many pre-existing setting sprays currently available on the market, suggesting a move toward a more standard formulation. The removal of the proprietary Skindinavia ingredients means the unique "cooling" chemistry is fundamentally altered. The brand has acknowledged that the cooling effect is still present but is not as strong as that of the original formulation.
The shift also involves a change in the atomizer mechanism. The new packaging features an upgraded nozzle that produces a much finer mist. This technical improvement addresses a common complaint about the original spray: the formation of large droplets that could leave white spots on the skin. The finer mist ensures a more even distribution of the formula, preventing these visible imperfections. This mechanical upgrade complements the chemical reformulation, offering a more refined user experience in terms of application.
Performance Analysis: Wear Time, Finish, and User Experience
To understand the practical impact of the reformulation, extensive testing was conducted by beauty professionals and enthusiasts. The new All Nighter range includes three distinct finishes: Natural, Glow, and Matte. For a direct comparison, the Natural finish was selected as it is the closest equivalent to the original formula. Testing scenarios included exposure to extreme environmental conditions, such as heatwaves and high humidity, to simulate real-world stress on makeup.
One tester, Edward Horgan, a beauty closet associate, wore their makeup through a full workday and then took a walk home in absurdly hot and humid weather. The result was that their makeup remained fully intact at the end of the day. Horgan noted that the new formula successfully performed its primary function of keeping makeup in place. However, the tester also observed that the cooling effect was noticeably weaker than the original. Additionally, Horgan reported feeling a little greasier with the new formula than with the OG, suggesting that the new emollient might leave a different residue on the skin. The tester also highlighted the improvement in the atomizer, noting that the finer mist prevented the white spots that were occasionally caused by the larger droplets of the old packaging.
Another tester, Kassidy Silva, the social director at Allure, confirmed the long-lasting wear capabilities of the new formula. During a heatwave, she found that the product did not disappoint in maintaining makeup integrity. However, the consensus among testers is that while the new formula holds up well in terms of longevity, it lacks the specific sensory profile of the original. The "cooling" experience is a key differentiator for many users, and its reduction is a significant change in the user experience.
The performance metrics indicate that the new formula delivers on its promise of 24-hour wear, waterproofing, and smudge-proofing. The inclusion of the AMP-acrylates/allyl methacrylate copolymer likely contributes to this durability. However, the trade-off appears to be a less intense cooling sensation and a potential for a slightly different skin feel, described by users as "greasier." The shift from a proprietary, patent-protected formula to a standard setting spray base means that while the hold is strong, the unique sensory experience has been diluted.
Comparative Breakdown: Original vs. Reformulated All Nighter
To visualize the differences between the legendary original formula and the new in-house iteration, a detailed comparison is essential. The following table outlines the key distinctions in ingredients, performance, and user experience.
| Feature | Original All Nighter (OG) | New All Nighter (Reformulated) |
|---|---|---|
| Formula Origin | Licensed from Skindinavia (Patented) | Developed in-house by Urban Decay |
| Key Film-Former | Proprietary Skindinavia blend | AMP-acrylates/allyl methacrylate copolymer |
| Cooling Effect | Intense, distinct cooling sensation | Moderate cooling (from ethanol evaporation) |
| Spray Mechanism | Older atomizer; could cause white spots | Upgraded atomizer; finer mist |
| Finish Options | Primarily standard finish | Natural, Glow, and Matte options |
| Skin Feel | Non-greasy, cooling | Slightly greasier, smoother |
| Longevity | 24-hour wear (historical data) | 24-hour wear (new claim) |
| Waterproofing | High resistance | High resistance (waterproof, smudge-proof) |
| Development Time | Developed in mid-2000s (pre-launch) | 4 years of research, 100+ iterations |
The data reveals a clear shift from a unique, patented formula to a more generalized setting spray architecture. The original formula's success was built on a specific combination of ingredients that created a unique sensory experience. The new formula, while maintaining high performance metrics for wear time, relies on standard industry ingredients like the AMP-acrylates copolymer. The loss of the intense cooling effect is the most significant deviation from the user expectations established by the original product.
The Business and Brand Strategy Behind the Reformulation
The decision to reformulate All Nighter is not merely a cosmetic update; it is a strategic business move. By bringing the formula in-house, Urban Decay gains full control over the product's intellectual property, pricing, and future development. The partnership with Skindinavia, while successful, involved a licensing fee structure that the brand may have found restrictive. Ending the partnership allows Urban Decay to innovate more freely without external constraints.
The timeline of the reformulation process is notable. The brand invested four years of dedicated research, going through over 100 formula iterations. This level of R&D suggests a serious commitment to improving upon the original, even if the result is perceived as different by the user base. The involvement of more than 20 scientists indicates a substantial resource allocation to the project. The goal was to "raise the bar for makeup performance" and respond to community feedback.
The public reaction to the end of the Skindinavia partnership was significant. Skindinavia's viral Instagram post about the "sad" end of the collaboration sparked a wave of discussion in the beauty community. The brand's response emphasized gratitude for the 15-year partnership and the legacy built together. However, the move signals a shift in Urban Decay's product strategy, moving away from licensed formulas to proprietary in-house developments. This aligns with broader industry trends where major brands seek to own their core IP rather than relying on external licensors.
The reformulation also addresses specific user complaints regarding the old packaging. The issue of white spots caused by large droplets was a known limitation of the original atomizer. The new upgraded atomizer solves this mechanical flaw, providing a finer mist. This technical improvement is a tangible benefit of the reformulation, even as the chemical composition changes.
Navigating the Transition: What Consumers Need to Know
For consumers who are diehard fans of the original All Nighter, the transition to the new formula presents a learning curve. The new product offers three finish options (Natural, Glow, Matte), allowing users to choose a look that suits their skin type and desired aesthetic. The Natural finish is the direct successor to the original, but users should be aware of the differences in texture and sensation.
Those seeking the intense cooling effect of the original may find the new formula lacking in that specific area. However, the new formula excels in other areas, such as the fineness of the spray and the durability of the makeup hold. The new formula is described as simpler, containing standard ingredients like preservatives, chelating agents, and emollients, which may make it more compatible with a wider range of skin types, although the "greasy" feel noted by some testers suggests it might not be ideal for those with very oily skin.
The availability of the new All Nighter is widespread, and the brand has marketed it as a superior iteration in terms of technology (atomizer) and performance (24-hour wear). However, the emotional attachment many users have to the original "cooling" sensation means that the reception has been mixed. Some users appreciate the finer mist and improved packaging, while others miss the unique sensory experience of the Skindinavia formula.
Conclusion
The reformulation of Urban Decay's All Nighter Setting Spray represents a pivotal moment in the brand's history. It marks the end of a 15-year era defined by the Skindinavia partnership and the beginning of a new chapter of in-house innovation. While the new formula retains the core promise of 24-hour, waterproof, and smudge-proof protection, it diverges significantly from the original in terms of chemical composition and sensory experience. The addition of AMP-acrylates/allyl methacrylate copolymer and the upgrade to the atomizer mechanism highlight the brand's technical advancements.
However, the trade-off is evident. The loss of the proprietary cooling ingredients results in a diminished cooling sensation, and some users report a greasier feel compared to the OG. The new product offers variety with Natural, Glow, and Matte finishes, catering to different skin needs. For the consumer, the choice now involves weighing the mechanical improvements and new finish options against the loss of the iconic cooling effect that defined the original product for over a decade. The new All Nighter is a robust product that fulfills its primary function of makeup protection, but it stands as a different entity from the legendary original that built the brand's reputation. As the beauty market continues to evolve, Urban Decay's move to control its own formula underscores the competitive nature of the industry, where IP ownership and continuous R&D are key drivers of product evolution.